对于很多想了解贵州的外国人来说，这片土地的山水，或许是第一印象。而味道，往往来得更直接，也更难忘。
For many foreigners who want to understand Guizhou, its landscapes are often the first impression. But its flavors tend to arrive more directly—and stay longer in memory.
在贵州生活多年的俄罗斯人缇娅娜，最近又开启了她的“寻味贵州”之旅，她希望通过各式各样的贵州味道，更进一步理解这个“第二家乡”。
Tatiana, a Russian who has lived in Guizhou for years, has recently set out once again on her journey to explore its tastes. Through a variety of local flavors, she hopes to better understand this“second home”of hers.
在省会贵阳云岩区东新路上，藏着一家地道的黔东南味道——榕江牛瘪。缇娅娜听说，这是贵州最有特色的味道之一，不容错过。
On Dongxin Road in Yunyan District, Guiyang, the provincial capital, there is a small restaurant serving authentic flavors from southeastern Guizhou—Rongjiang Niu Bie. Tatiana had heard that this is one of the most distinctive tastes of Guizhou, something not to be missed.
进店，落座。
She walks in and takes a seat.
一锅墨绿色的汤被端上桌，在火力加持下在面前翻滚。
A pot of dark green broth is brought to the table, bubbling steadily over the flame.
气味先到了。不是熟悉的香，而是一种带着青草、发酵，还有一点说不上来的“野”的气息。
The smell arrives first. Not a familiar aroma, but something with notes of grass, fermentation, and a hint of something wild that is hard to describe.
“这个……是可以吃的吗？”缇娅娜微微皱眉。
“Is this… actually edible?”Tatiana frowns slightly.
这不是她第一次在贵州吃“看起来不太容易理解的食物”。但这一次，还是不一样。
This is not her first time encountering a dish in Guizhou that seems difficult to understand at first glance. But this time, it feels different.
牛瘪，本质上是牛等食草动物胃中尚未完全消化的青草，经处理过滤后形成汤底，再配以辣椒、花椒、山柰等香料烹制而成。
Niu Bie, at its core, is made from partially digested grass found in the stomach of herbivorous animals such as cattle. It is processed and filtered to create a broth, then cooked with ingredients like chili, Sichuan pepper, and aromatic herbs.
在当地，这种味道被形容为“先苦后甘”。苦，是第一层，来自棰油籽、胆汁等食材。然后才是辣、香，还有一点慢慢浮现的回甘。层次复杂而浓烈。
Locals often describe its flavor as“bitter at first, then sweet.”The bitterness comes first—derived from ingredients such as herbal seeds and bile. Then come the layers of spice, aroma, and a slowly emerging aftertaste. Complex and intense.
对初尝者而言，这往往意味着一次味觉边界的挑战。
For first-time tasters, it is often a challenge to their boundaries of taste.
“刚入口的时候，有点苦，还有一点说不上来的味道。”缇娅娜尝试第一口后坦言，“很特别。”
“At the first bite, it’s a bit bitter, and there’s a flavor I can’t quite describe,”Tatiana says after trying it.“But it’s very unique.”
第二口，第三口，她试着去分辨味道。慢慢地，她理解当地人所说的，瘪食并不是一种“讨好型”的味道，而是一种需要时间去理解的饮食表达。
With a second bite, then a third, she begins to slow down and try to distinguish the layers. Gradually, she starts to understand what locals mean: this is not a flavor designed to please immediately, but one that takes time to appreciate.
从更早的历史来看，这种食俗与当地的自然环境和生活方式密切相关。
Historically, this unique food tradition is closely tied to the region’s natural environment and way of life.
在盐资源相对匮乏的年代，人们通过发酵、草本与动物消化过程，创造新的味道层次，用以丰富饮食结构。
In times when salt was scarce, people created new layers of flavor through fermentation, herbs, and even animal digestion processes, enriching their diets in the process.
在今天看来，这既是一种生存智慧，也是一种味觉创造。
Today, this can be seen as both a form of survival wisdom and a kind of culinary creativity.
在榕江，牛瘪早已融入日常饮食。“看村超，吃牛瘪”，更成为不少游客来到这里的固定体验。
In Rongjiang, Niu Bie has long been part of everyday life.“Watch the Village Super League, eat Niu Bie”has even become a common experience for visitors.
缇娅娜尝试用当地人的方式进食——将牛肉蘸着瘪汤，再配上香菜和青菜。“我觉得贵州人很勇敢，”她笑着说，“也很有智慧，会想出这样一种食物。”
Tatiana begins to eat the way locals do—dipping slices of beef into the broth, pairing them with cilantro and leafy greens.“I think people in Guizhou are very brave,”she says with a smile,“and also very wise, to come up with something like this.”
她还注意到，当地人普遍认为牛瘪具有一定的保健作用。近年来的研究也显示，其中含有多种氨基酸等成分，具有一定营养价值。
She also notices that many locals believe Niu Bie has certain health benefits. Recent studies suggest it contains various amino acids and may offer nutritional value.
“有些味道，不是为了第一口就让人喜欢。”缇娅娜意识到，“而是让你慢慢去理解，这里的人是怎么生活的。”
“Some flavors are not meant to be liked at the first bite,”Tatiana reflects,“but to help you understand how people here live.”
在全球化语境下，饮食早已不是单纯的味觉体验，更是文化沟通的一种方式。
In a globalized world, food is no longer just about taste—it is also a way of cultural communication.
当一个来自俄罗斯的年轻人，在贵州的小城里尝试一口带着青草发酵气息的汤底，这种跨越地域与文化的瞬间，也让“贵州的味道”有了新的表达。
When a young woman from Russia takes a sip of a broth infused with the essence of fermented grass in a small town in Guizhou, this moment—crossing regions and cultures—offers a new way for the world to experience the taste of Guizhou.
贵州日报天眼新闻记者 王旗
编辑 张婷
二审 杨韬
三审 田旻佳